Landsknecht Hosen: How I Make Gregor’s Slashed German Trousers (Pattern and Instructions)

Up to this point, the hosen (German slashed trousers) worn by Gregor have been my most challenging project. I have no qualms about admitting that I went through several incarnations before finally getting it right (or, at least, good enough for daily wear without ripping). I’ve made him two good pair of hosen to date, which he essentially wore every… (more…)

My Artisan Quest From Mistress Crespine de la Vallée

I am pleased to report that today I became the student of Mistress Crespine de la Vallée. This wonderful woman has been an informal adviser and guide for me since I met her as one of my judges at my very first Kingdom A&S Competition in May 2012. She is a talented needleworker (she also does blackwork!) and a seamstress… (more…)

How to Make Leder Wams (16th c. German Landsknecht Leather Jerkin): A Step-by-Step Photo Tutorial

I’ve researched the 16th century German leder wams, also known as a leather doublet or vest, commonly word by Landsknecht soldiers. I’ve draped a pattern for a leder wams, using my son as a model for the step by step photos. I’ve made a full-size, full-leather leder wams for my man Gregor, who has now worn it many times to… (more…)

Squaring Up Your Linen: How to Cut Evenly Along the Grain By Pulling a Thread

When you’re preparing your linen for a project that requires absolute straightness, such as embroidery or pleatwork (smocking), you want to cut your linen straight along the grain of the fabric. If you don’t get it straight, it can pull oddly on your frame, fray annoyingly as you work with it, and create uneven hems. You could put on magnifying… (more…)

Pennsic 42 Classes: Tellerbarret Hats, Landsknecht Military History, Blackwork, and Wax Carving!

We’ve returned from our two-week adventure at Pennsic 42! One of this year’s highlights were the five classes we taught between the three of us (me, my lord Gregor, and my son Alexander). All were very well attended and very satisfying to teach. I estimate we taught a total of 125-150 people among the classes. Here are notes on what… (more…)

Landsknecht Men, Short Hosen, and the Display of Bare Legs: Fact or Fiction?

This weekend I had the pleasure of attending the Middle Kingdom Arts & Sciences Competition, in which I was both an entrant (for my goldhaube) and a judge. This was my first experience judging and it was most illuminating. The first entry I judged was a Landsknect man’s outfit by THL Errc Glaison (read his blog here). The outfit was… (more…)

Waffenrock Tabard Design for SCA Fighters: The Waffenrocket!

Tabards (wappenrock) are popular for SCA fighters because they’ll cover up less-than-period armor and just generally make one look good without a lot of effort. And while my fighter (Gregor) has plenty of good things to wear, he tends to go back again and again to the tabard for comfort and ease. There’s just one problem — tabards aren’t something… (more…)

German Goldhaube Cap of Silk, Gold, and Pearls: Pattern, Instructions, Documentation, and Notes

After months of research, I’ve successfully managed to create a lovely “goldhaube” (golden cap) that looks like the caps seen in the many Lucas Cranach paintings of 16th century Germany. During my research and trials I had many people contact me to ask about it, and I’m happy to share what I have learned. In addition to the pattern, instructions,… (more…)

Dressing a Slate Frame to Embroider on Silk

It’s important to have the right tool for the job, and this is especially true when it comes to the fiber arts. Back in 16th century Germany (and many other European countries and periods prior to this century), Der Seidensticker (embroiderers) used what we call “slate frames” to keep their fabric taut and tensioned while stitching. A slate frame is… (more…)

Goldhaube Pattern: Preliminary Ideas

After many experimental haube (coif) mock-ups, talking it through with Lady Antoinette, and feedback from the GermanRenCostume Yahoo Group (especially from Katherine), I have a preliminary pattern for the goldhaube: The haube band would be sewn to the straight side of the haube itself, which would start at the top of the head (a bit back from the hairline) and… (more…)