Sometimes, when things come together, it’s just beautiful!
Now that I have the actual pattern and method of construction for the schaube, and I know how it all fits together, I’ve been assembling the pieces. What was a jumble of weird shapes that didn’t work together is now a very well-designed coat. A thing of beauty! And I love that I know without any doubt this coat was designed at least over 450 years ago, and quite probably a bit older than that as this style of coat was popular for some time in the 16th century in Germany, England, and Italy.
Here’s my progress on my wool version of this coat:
- 8 yards of dark red wool, pre-washed, pre-shrunk, cut, and ironed (I believe I could have gotten away with a little less, maybe 7 yards)
- Coat, collar, lapels, and lining assembled and sewn with silk/cotton threads (machine stitched long inside seams, hand-stitched the collar and yoke)
- Black cotton velvet guards cut, sewn, and attached to the collar with gold metallic thread (note: I machine stitched all of this gold metallic thread on the guards because, frankly, it’d take a year to do it by hand myself and I do not have a stable of minions to help!)
What remains to be done:
- Stitch velvet guards onto the puff upper sleeves and the straight lower sleeves, then attach them together and to the coat
- Hem the cloak to the length of Gregor’s knees
- Cut and sew the multiple black velvet guards to the hem
- Make the passementerie knot and attach it to the right sleeve
Photos of the coat in progress:
This wool coat is my “practice” version, and I’ve learned several things already that I’ll improve upon for the one I make out of silk damask. The biggest thing bothering me right now is the metallic stitching on the guards. I did it by machine for this practice version, but because it’s harder to control than hand stitching, it isn’t consistent in places. That bugs me. So I will need to handstitch at least some of the metallic threads in my final coat.
Additionally, the point at which the back collar joins the front collar is tricky for matching up the guards. I could have done a better job at that, and I’ll pay more attention on my final coat.
Finally, I noticed that the folds of my practice coat aren’t falling as evenly as those in the photo BUT I know that the photograph of the extant coat has an unusual coat-shaped form under it, and that form has the folds in it. I also know that the original coat is gathered, not pleated, so I suspect that it has that nice, big, even drape thanks to the form more than the coat itself. It’s also likely that the velvet guards will add more volume and shape to the drape. So we’ll see how it turns out when it is done.
Now to work on the sleeves!